So, anyone more familiar with Brampton than I, please leave your suggestions in the comments, or email me I particularly would like to go somewhere with good doubles.

And I’ll be sure to take pictures and review the place for those who also want to know!

Lilandra and I went to the Taste on Sunday, the second night of the 2-night main event. She’s already posted her photos and blogged in great detail. I dubbed this Taste on the Run since we spent barely an hour and a half at the Taste, and still had to get through 2 Gourmet tickets (8 restaurants!!). This is also likely to be Review on the Run! (pictures and descriptions of food follow the link!

The rushed element was really mostly us – I only realised this was possible on the Wednesday before, and didn’t actually arrive in Trinidad until Saturday morning. We tried on Saturday to get tickets – the list we’d seen online only had Botticelli‘s a Grand Bazaar as a location nearish to us and they were refusing to answer the phone…or they weren’t there! Later on we realised there was another list that included Marhaba, which was much closer to us…sigh…

Getting There

We didn’t get there until after 7 pm, with lots of phone calls between TriniGourmet and ourselves (yay! she had a cellphone this year!) to confirm that yes, we were on our way. She was there from 5 pm. FIVE PM, when the gates weren’t supposed to open until SIX. But she was the wise one. For when we arrived, expecting there’d be parking somewhere (for which we were willing to pay) we realised we had to hunt through the surrounding crammed streets. Now, we didn’t just imagine this idea of parking – they had it setup last year, and this year the information online gave FOUR different places where parking would be available. But it was not to be. We eventually drove all the way down to Ariapita and managed to park in the carpark of the Princess Elizabeth Centre, due to the kindness of the security guard. And then we walked (fast) ALL the way back to the complex. In a rush.

I can understand that there may be various reasons that parking was not provided eventually – but if it was included in the information publicly available, then it’s a bit of a setup not to advise otherwise. Also, how can you purport to run a tourism-oriented event, claiming you want to attract visitors to the country without something in place to ensure they can get there? If you don’t know the somewhat confusing streets in the area, where would you park? Is it only for tourists who take taxis? Or who are staying in walking distance? As for local visitors – not everyone lives in or knows Port of Spain well enough to know what to do or where to go. Next year, if TDC can’t arrange parking, please organise a shuttle service or something. Something! Because there are so many people coming to this thing and I am not a shoulder parker!

Rant over.

When we finally made it to the entrance, we decided to go ahead and get Gourmet Tickets for Groups A and B (one each). The Gourmet tickets allow you to get a plate from 4 different chefs, plus complimentary wine and this year dessert! Last year, we were still hungry after our 4 plates, so we decided we’d still take one each, as there were supposed to be much more local foods available – winners of the Iron PotSpoon Throwdown and all. However, this year most of the offerings were much more substantial. A real meal. So much so that we ended up collecting half of the plates just to take home. Good thing Lilandra walked with those little disposable plastic containers (Ziploc or Glad? depends on who pays me to drop a brandname…) and foil was readily available at most places. This way, however, the parents (too tired and too cheap to pay go for Gourmet themselves) got to share in the joy and sample the Taste, when we got home.

We met up with TriniGourmet inside, who’d already eaten and imbibed starting with the dessert to get her dairy out of the way. TriniFood was also there, all the way from London and we bounced into her while she was busy tasting and tracking down chefs to interview. Unfortunately, we didn’t get a chance to sit and talk since we had to leave early. It was great to have this little foodblogging reunion, but next time, we need to meet up where we can hear each other talk. And where we don’t have to physically chase down the food

And now to the food!

We chose Groups A and B, as did TG and some other friends we bumped into, because they had the most offerings that were friendly to those with dietary restrictions. And as it turned out, some of them even offered up non-advertised veggie alternatives (which as I recall was only really offered by Itahki last year). Fortunately for us, all of the chicken was halaal, and even some of the other meats, but for anyone strictly vegetarian there would have been somewhat lighter plates.

GROUP A

Chef Bernard Long of Bernard’s Gourmet Caterers – “A Triwee Barbeque” – A New Zealand BBQ with a Trini Fusion (A combination of Shrimp, Chicken and Tenderloin of Beef served with Grilled Corn, Garlic Bread and a Fresh Caribbean Garden Salad)

Last year we weren’t too impressed by Chef Bernard – we could only eat the shrimp and so the offering looked a bit paltry with some shrimp, a itsy tortilla and some sour cream. This year we could have sampled it all, but as we were rushing I skipped the slicing of the tenderloin. Lilandra has a photo, but I was busy packing it into a container to take home. And yes, I snagged the garlic bread as I did that. I think we (the four of us who ate it at home) basically liked this but it was nothing particularly special. But an improvement from last year.

Chef Joseph Hau of Benihana Restaurant – Trincity Roll (Crab and Salmon Tempura served with a Wasabi and Lemon-Mayo sauce); Pierre’s Balls (Crab & Salmon Sashimi and Cream Cheese Tempura served with Mango-Passion Fruit sauce); California Roll (Crab and Cucumber roll); Vegetable Roll (Cucumber, Tomato, Purple Cabbage and Carrot); Edamame and Wakame salad

I love sushi. So it was a given that I would like this. But I think even non-sushi lovers would have been able to try this and liked it – not really an emphasis on the raw fish, but a nice combination of flavours throughout. And a really healthy serving, perfect for sharing between two…or more. And the wasabi…whew…I could do with some now! It went straight to my sinuses with great power, but no lasting heat. mmmm…

Chef Mario Hernandez of Chilli Pepper Restaurant – Mexican Blackened Breast of Chicken served with a Yellow Rice Pilaf scented with Cumin Black Beans and a Fire-roasted Chunky Tomato Relish

This was one of the plates eaten at home. The chicken was good, the black bean rice was great (Mom loved it especially) and the taste of chadon beni was resplendent throughout so I had no real complaints. Plus people got to see the Chef grilling chilli peppers live

Chef Johnny Chow of Aloha Caterers – Polynesian Fried Rice; Grilled Tuna Fillet with a Pineapple and Guava Glaze; Coconut Infused Vegetables

We didn’t get a whole fillet because of timing, but the bits and pieces that we got made up more than a regular portion, and was easy to share up at home. The rice was ok, as were the vegetables, but since they were topped by crispy rice noodles, yum (I like crispy noodles!). The tuna and the glaze were a good combination, but the glaze got on eveything and overpowered the other items (may have had to do with the long drive home). I wouldn’t mind trying out some other polynesian dishes, but other than the tuna and noodles, the rest of this didn’t stand out.

GROUP B

Chef Moses Ruben of Mélange – Chicken Bhagi Roulade complemented with a Spicy Roasted Sweet Potato; Smoked Tomato and Bell Pepper Bouchées; Garlic-scented Vegetable Kebab

This was the prettiest plate, most colourful and so delicious. The Chicken Roulade was dry, which was odd considering the bhagi (spinach) filling was moist and lovely. We wondered what on earth had they done to dry out the chicken and retain the moisture of the inside? But the sweet potato..mmmm… And the blue cheese dressing on the veggie kebabs was a nice touch. I think the bouchée was ok, I can’t really remember. Such is tasting on the run! You have to be excellent to stand out.

Chefs Jimmy and Mona Hadeed of Boomerang caterers – Fillet of Fish with Tahini Sauce; Arabic style Chicken Breast; Channa and Rice; Fried Kibbe; Baklava

This was one of the best plates of the night – even if the colour palette wasn’t much varied… You could choose channa rice or lamb rice; veggie kibbe or beef kibbe; and chicken or fish. We took the chicken rather than the fish, although now I wish I had been able to taste their tahini sauce. The chicken was done pretty perfectly – moist and flavourful but clearly grilled on the outside. The channa rice was nice, the meat kibbe was excellent. Really nice. And the best part – great, light and flaky, with just the right amount of honey BAKLAVA!!

Chef Christian Grini of Chaconia – Chicken Breast filled with Spinach in a Coconut Cream Curry Reduction

Ok, again, the picture may not look like much. It’s also a borrowed picture from Lilandra as mine weren’t really very good. But never mind, this was delicious. Really. And it was a big serving, served on mashed potatoes, which was surprising, but didn’t affect the overall taste at all. This one was also enjoyed en famille.

Chef Sharaz Mohammed, of Marhaba – Stir Fry Balti Shrimp served with Vegetable Biryani and Tamarind Chutney

This was the smallest serving of the night. But I think they were leaning towards presentation as they carefully molded the rice, placed the huge shrimp and artfully dribbled the chutney. As seen at left (somewhat desaturated photos). And a teeny wedge of lime. The shrimp was very good, and the rice was not to bad either. This is a fairly new restaurant in Charlieville, Central Trinidad, close to home and all halaal.

Well, maybe someone who tasted Group C can post somewhere. Some of that stuff looked really good. Caribbean ratatouille from Botticelli’s? Curry Crab ravioli from Battimamzelle? Anyone?

Dessert was a choice of ice cream or cheesecake – Ponche Creme, Piña Colada and Black Forest. Only the latter had alcohol (weird ent? of all the ones to be alchohol-free…), so we took a Ponche Creme and Piña Colada straight home. They were good. Creamy and nice flavours.

From our hurried forays through the parts of the complex that were open to the public, it seemed like there were many substantial food stalls – Bake and Shark, Doubles etc winners of the showdowns. There were the usual marketing stalls – Kraft, Crix etc. It was enough to spend a several hours tasting. But having spent the TT $300 on each Gourmet Ticket, we spent our precious minutes gathering up that food, thankfully not too far from each other. Or worse, like last year when the groups themselves were split across the Complex.

Decor and Entertainment

This year like the last, the decor was by Brian MacFarlane. I really like the colour combination last year – the oranges and golds were very evening-festive. This year he did it in white. White flags, and bridges, and white pierrot grenades, drummers and dancers. I don’t have any photos of it; since Sarina was there in daylight, look out for her pictures! There were also these old classic cars on display – as wedding transportation. And the musical entertainment was varied and constant on 3 different stages (hence the not being able to hear people talk). When we walked in there was an Alternative Quartet – string instruments playing a variety of genres, and very well. I liked them. They were followed by Arabian dancers, waving and glittering their way through the crowd. All quite festive.

I am glad that this year there seemed to be a lot more to enjoy for those who didn’t want the Gourmet (expensive) experience. I only wish we’d had time to sample that part of it. Good thing I am a Trini and know these foods…but next time…ooh next time. Lilandra said we should have got a room in town so we could have stayed really late and then still get to the Canadian High Commission at the crack of dawn without the extra driving…and lack of sleep… Now that would have really been a gourmet” experience. Maybe if I was doing this thing with an expense account

Preparations are underway for Taste T&T for 2008 and it appears there are going to be some modifications to the format this year. I hope for the better. Although they did have a pretty cool product last year! So mark your calendars for late May/early June (dates may still be changed):

Taste T&T 2008
Food Festival – MAY 24 + 25, 2008 (Updated May 22, 2008)
Restaurant Week – June 2-7, 2008

If you read my review from last year‘s Taste, you may remember that although the offerings from T&T’s top chefs were great, I bemoaned the relative lack of Trini streetfood and other local delicacies. Well, I am clearly influential Because this year, they are adding an additional night to the Festival, focusing on local foods! And as you can see, they’re going to feature restaurants in a special way at the restaurants. They’ve also moved the Festival to the Jean Pierre Complex in order to accommodate more people, and expand the Demonstration Kitchen. From the T&T Express:

There’s always a football match going on in Glasgow. Loads of people crowding into and singing on the Metro. Chanting and drumming on the streets. Kilts, tams and red wigs flowing around and almost overtaking the tourists. And visibly increased police presence. Every day. Well, every time I arrive in Glasgow anyway. That’s how it was the first time I ever visited the city four years ago, and that’s how it was this time. I didn’t spend that much time on the streets, but on the Metro from the train station to my hosts, at every stop I could hear the rumblings and the singing. I know it’s not really every day, but it was a throwback to my first visit, when we realised how the city and its people could be overtaken by this preparing-for-a-match atmosphere. It can be an invigorating experience, but you just hope it’s not a Celtic vs Rangers match…

I was visiting Jeff and Tamara; Jeff who was in my kitchen in Edinburgh (along with 10 others, including Jess and Ewe) and Tamara who was around the corner on the same floor. Since the friendship with Jeff is firmly rooted in that kitchen – it’s where conversations started about food and progress onward – and he and Tamara have that common interest as well, you can expect that there’s some food talk in this visit, never fear. Last year I was treated to saffron couscous, Bosnian sausage crepes, lamb tagine, Thai coconut chicken soup and homemade scones, a Jeff specialty. This year was just as interesting and hopefully inspiring.

The slogan in the title is taken from a campaign launched in 2004, “aimed at repositioning the city as a cosmopolitan, European destination as well as a modern, dynamic location for inward investment and tourism”. I’ve seen alot of online debate about the veracity of such an advertisement for the city but I am just a tourist. I won’t enter into the fray. Glasgow definitely has styles…styles of architechture, sometimes quite contrastingly styled buildings immediately next to each other. But definitely, styles. I can’t speak to the commerce element, but in terms of art and culture, and food, there is a lot to offer. Who can beat free lawn-bowling? Now that is style!

The Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery has an excellent collection of European art and exhibits about Scotland and the Scots. Free to the public. I was a little bemused by the strange phrasing on many of the informative signs, until I realised that they were also hanging well below my eye-level, and I put 2 and 2 together. Ahhhhh. I’m smart sometimes, you know, it just takes a while. The Museum has put a lot of excellent effort into catering for the younger visitors. Explanations that are gearded for children’s inquiring and quirky minds and interactive displays in almost every room (and not just the annoying loud electronic types either, there was a very cool exhibit where you could pull out drawers to see what implements and paint materials centuries old artists would have used). Since it was that time in July, there were even children using the computer in the Scotland Identity and Symbols exhibit to demonstrate their knowledge of Harry Potter. I did take some pictures of the exhibits, but I have to admit I spent more time just enjoying the galleries visually. And the commentary and observations made by ourselves. There are organ recitals daily and for a lunch time break, we walked outside and across the road to the bowling greens. Rolling heavy round things across a green expanse, trying to hit each other (the balls…no real physical violence here), walking barefoot on the grass and trying to figure out the rules by ourselves, all the while being laughed at I’m sure by the pros. It’s a good thing no one was bowling in the lanes on the other sides of us, as we weren’t always on target. Sometimes far from it…

I also made it out to the Pollok Country Park to visit the Burrell Collection and walk through the gardens of the Pollok Estate. The Pollok House is also an exhibit, but not free. The Burrell Collection was gifted to the City of Glasgow by Sir William Burrell and his wife:

“William Burrell had been an art collector since his teens, and the collection is made up of a vast array of works of all periods and from all over the world.

You can wander round important collections of medieval art, tapestries, alabasters, stained glass and English oak furniture, European paintings, including works by Degas and Cézanne, an important collection of Islamic art, and modern sculpture including works by Epstein and Rodin. Children will be fascinated by the works from days of long ago -we have a fine collection of works from ancient China, Egypt, Greece and Rome. Architectural features from the collection have been integrated into the structure of the building -you can walk under arches built for medieval lords and ladies. There are also reconstructions of rooms from Sir William’s home, furnished in gothic style with items from the collection.”

It is really an incredible and somewhat eclectic display, but because of the vastness of the collection, it is very well organised and laid out, just like a regular museum. Which makes it all the more astounding when you realise that one person collected all of this.

While we only walked past the Pollok House, we explored in detail the demonstration gardens attached to the house, where I saw purple cauliflower, and courgettes and squash of all kinds growing on the ground. Onions, potatoes, peas, apples…the variety was as impressive as the Burrell Collection. We got to walk past stables, with a laughing horse, and Highland Coos in the fields. The old Pollok Beech in a dark forested area. It is an interesting place to visit, the Pollok Estate. You get a complete musuem and art gallery on the grounds, as well as a little botanical garden and a forest walk. Only a short train ride from the city centre.

Of course, Glasgow also has its Botanic Gardens in the city, which I visited last year, and quite enjoyed, especially since they had a greenhouse with tropical economic plants – I think that was the name – with sugar cane, cocoa, bananas… There are some more views of the city from my visit last year on Flickr.

And now to the food…

My hosts Jeff and Tamara cook a lot. A lot. Of course, you wonder why I stress that, since I am allegedly a foodie who cooks. After all I blog about food and cooking. But between the time I “returned” from Barbados in May, and my vacation in the end of July, I didn’t do much cooking. I barely bought groceries, since I was never in my flat for more than 3 or 4 days at a time. And my cooking desires were hampered either by thoughts that I hadn’t yet unpacked from Barbados, or the knowledge that I should be preparing to move again (still in Guyana, but to a new flat). So by the time I got to Glasgow, the most cooking I had done were those 2 occasions the week before in Edinburgh with Jess (where I burned the sugar!!). As I watched them shop (organic shops and halaal butcher) and plan and cook, I had the strongest feeling that my cooking skills were rusting away in comparison. But the feeling didn’t last too long…as I managed to attempt to make some dhal and doubles, with kingfish steaks (the last being the most successful) for the last dinner in Glasgow and by the time I returned to Trinidad and Guyana, I was cooking again (Alton Brown burgers, some bread making etc). Maybe I was inspired by the cooking once again with friends who I used to share a kitchen with (Jess and Jeff), or maybe I was just reminded of the joys of cooking, even if by myself. In Glasgow I was served:

Mint-Lamb Burgers – served with mango salsa and baked sweet potato/squash chips

Chicken Parmigiania with Fettucine Alfredo

Salmon hotpot, served over brown rice (Wagamama cookbook)

Pineapple-watermelon-coriander juice (also Wagamama)

Mango Lassi, homemade icecream and breads, with good coffee and a variety of teas. All these were homemade, and the only contribution I can claim is breading the chicken and assembling some sandwiches. And of course participation as a diner!

We did go out to dinner once to Mother India, an Indian tapas-style restaurant that is incredibly popular, small, and doesn’t take bookings. So on any given night, you’ll be sure to find people lining up out in the street waiting for a table. And yet, sitting at your table, you don’t really get a rushed feeling. The food is good and service is fairly quick. Which was good, because we were headed to The Simpsons Movie. Since it’s tapas, the 3 of us ordered about 6 dishes – some rice; chicken amchar; chicken dosa with dhal; lamb karahi; sag paneer; and something else, possibly a pakora together with naan. I liked all the items and was not disapppointed. (Halal meats) I loved the lamb karahi – it was everything I wanted out of the Khushi’s dish – and the chicken amchar had that lovely mango pickle flavour that I hated 10 years ago and now adore). We ended with some soothing masala chai and then off to The Simpsons.

My time in Glasgow had a little bit of everything…Blockbuster Summer Movies (also saw Transformers), Art, Food (lots of it) Shopping and Games. Apart from the lawn bowling (which I won the first time, and not the 2nd time), we also played Scrabble (some wins, some losses) and Scattergories. All made for some great quality time. And not so great sleep, but who needs sleep on a vacation. That’s what work is for.
Glasgow 2007 Flickr set.

This is part of What I did on my Vacation (July 2007).

I traveled from Edinburgh to London by train. A trip that’s a little less than 5 hours and one I have taken only a couple times before. Whenever I tell people at home that I studied in Scotland, or the UK, if they haven’t been to Scotland, they tend to assume that it’s just like England. Hah. And that you must be gone to London plenty, man. How else you going to meet up the West Indians? I have to admit that during the time I studied in Scotland, I didn’t head down to England all that often. The couple times I did, I made sure to lug back my West Indian essentials, readily available in markets in East London – Golden Ray (“for that real creole flavour…” in my stewed chicken and pelau), saltfish, a couple bottles of Chubby (for when the homesickness was extreme), some more packs of pholourie mix (why make your own when Lion Brand did such a good job ?) and even a bottle of mauby (unfortunately this was a Bajan mix and had vanilla essence in it). But the truth is I enjoyed being in Scotland. And exploring parts of Scotland. Our kitchen took some trips in the beginning, just within Scotland, before conflicting schedules and interests took over (YES, the kitchen! The stove and sink had loads of fun in Glasgow and St Andrews, I swear!) and even after that I had little holidays in Inverness and in the Inner Hebrides that were perfect for relaxation and sightseeing. Just walking around Edinburgh was great – old city, with castles and old buildings, and parks and water, and golf courses. It’s Scotland.

But I am supposed to be talking about my visit to England…

LONDON

My family friends live in East London, which is veritable haven for things from home. A Trini or West Indian in London doesn’t really have to fly in stuff from home. Seriously. I didn’t visit the market this time, because I was on holiday from the Caribbean and going right back in a week or so. I didn’t need to shop for life-saving essentials I was free to visit and tourist. What really impressed me though, was my hosts’ garden. A city garden with grapes, and potatoes and berries and tomatoes. Not forgetting the roses! They had so many tomatoes that they were able to make ketchup and give away. They even manage to grow shadon beni. Really impressive. I killed my chadon beni. And I have no idea what happened to the sweet basil…No green thumb here I suppose. Although it might help if I was actually here more to look after such things.

I really don’t know London that well, and this time I still only managed a couple actual days in the city, only one in Central London. But I managed to check things off my list (if I had one ) and of course enjoy some good food. Starting with a good Guyanese pepperpot for breakfast Yes. Pepperpot. That Amerindian Guyanese national dish of meat stewed with cassareep and spices, that can be heated up every day with additions of more meat, to provide days of food that doesn’t need to be refrigerated. The matriarch of my host family is a Guyanese who married a Trini. Their daughters being Trini. So the pepperpot, happily, was free of the ahem other cow parts. So I enjoyed a rare heavy, spicy, meat dish for breakfast, before setting off for Central London.

It was not the greatest summer, this July in the UK, so I was thrilled that when we arrived in Green Park en route to Buckingham Palace it was bright and sunny. Yay. Green Park was filled with people, many taking advantage of the free lawn chairs to get some much needed and missed sunlight. We didn’t linger, as we were forewarned with a weather forecast that predicted rain after 1 pm, and we didn’t know whether we would catch the changing of the guard, not having checked the schedule. As we approached the gates of the park, however, we could hear drumming. And there were people packed around the gates of the Palace. So, something was going on. It was some kind of military band inside the Palace gates, people were marching and there was a group of VIPs watching.

I couldn’t see it at the time, but later on reviewing my photos, I realised one of the VIPs had a Jamaican flag! And doing some online checking, I discovered it was in fact the Jamaican Defence Force military band. (Think that’s a great coincidence? Well, if I’d stayed in Edinburgh until August, just a few days later, I’d have been able to see the Trinidad and Tobago Defence Force Steel Orchestra perform at the Military Tattoo at the Castle. All Festival long. Ah well, there will be another time.) But it was fun anyway, being outside the Buckingham Palace gates and watching the JDF band march past. It was a Saturday. And sunny, so it was packed with tourists. Especially noticeable were the many large student groups from all over. They usually had matching jackets, or bags, so you could spot them easily in a crowd. I got to take pictures in the bright sunlight of these crowds, of the Palace, of the statuary in front. And then of course, it started to rain.

The rain didn’t daunt our touristing, however. Good indoor plan? Head to the British Museum. Along with hundreds of other people who clearly had the same idea. It was a bit of a crush getting in. But once inside, it’s huge enough to swallow most of those people (until of course you get to the Rosetta Stone or something, which always had people 5 deep all around). The great hall or courtyard of the British Museum is reason enough to visit. The huge space and the design of the ceiling certainly makes an impact. And the exhibits, of course, are duly impressive. I didn’t make it to a great percentage of the rooms, but I managed to see a lot of Ancient Egypt. And slightly less ancient Egypt. And then a large room with Islamic exhibits. It was fascinating for me to see the Qibla pointer from the 16th century and realise that certain aspects of science and discovery have been around for a long long time. (The Qibla is the direction of the Ka’abah/Qa’aba in Mecca, Saudi Arabia) Or to look at the progression and merging of artistic styles as people moved through different parts of the Arab and Asian worlds. The museum has many many other rooms and floors. And one day, perhaps when it’s a little less crowded, I shall return to explore more fully.

I ate a lot of homecooked food in London. But we did go out to dinner the night before I left to Pandoo’s Family Restaurant, which has been around for a little while in East London, but is now franchising and has a couple more branches. It’s a Muslim family style restaurant, which seems to be modeled after Nando’s, which specialises in peri-peri chicken (spicy grilled chicken) and a range of house specialty sauces, hot and/or flavourful. Pandoo’s has a similar menu, and a range of sauces, together with the self-serve dishes and cutlery and unlimited drink refills that are part of the modus operandi at Nando’s. Having had some Malaysian chefs, Pandoo’s also offers a fusion menu, with some Malaysian, Thai and Chinese dishes. We ordered a lot of food (I think partly so that I could taste the range, and partly so the returning-from-Uni daughter could have her favourites to take home) so I was able to taste the chicken, the chicken and veggie Thai-noodles (ah peanuts in noodles are heavenly), spring rolls, prawn toast, fried rice, chicken fingers, huge fried shrimp. The food was great, but I only ate a very little. When I see a lot of food in front of me, I get full from the sight. Plus, it was perhaps a bit too heavy on the fried stuff. Next time, I’d go for the noodles and chicken, or try out their green curry.

I was supposed to have tried to arrange a meetup with Trinifood in London, who promised a good lunch, but unfortunately my time was too short and it didn’t happen. My fault. It’ll happen soon.

Flickr set of London photos.

This is part of What I did on my Vacation (July 2007).

In fact, I know more than this. This really was my home for a whole year. A year with friends, a great kitchen atmosphere with cooking and cooking company, an old city with lots to see and do. And much halaal food. Always an essential element to good living. Oh, and the degree…It was very bizarre to walk around the city, into old haunts, passing through school and smelling that Edinburgh-smell and immediately feel like I was still living there. Shopping in the same stores, buying food in the same supermarkets and butcher. The restaurants. The Botanic Gardens. The monuments. Calton Hill. Princes Street. Ah Princes Street Gardens. It was filled with roses and thistles. And tourists. Just like old times. (I post about the food too, never fear!)

It didn’t help that I was there for almost a week with my most excellent friend and postgrad-cell-room neighbour, who I hadn’t seen since I left 3 years ago, although we’ve been in almost daily contact since then. As students, we shared a wall. I could bang on her wall to communicate. Or come out and walk less than a metre to her door. But occasionally (ok always) we’d IM each other. Late into the night even. When we said we’d gone in to sleep. Even though we each had phones in our room and could call each other for free. Just like with Ewe, another most excellent friend and further-down-the-hall neighbour. We’d be emailing each other, each perhaps thinking the other had gone to the library or class only to realise we’d spent all morning emailing up and down the corridor. Yes, we were perhaps strange. But I prefer to think of it as cementing a practice that was to continue long after we were no longer next door or down the hall, so that I’ve never been out of contact with those few who indulged in such communication along the corridor of our residence.

It was also new this time, to be in Edinburgh as someone who takes photos all the time with Jess. Jess, the former neighbour, is a talented photographer I would accompany on walks when she had the urge to take beautiful pictures of the city. And then examine the results with her. I think I learned a lot from that experience. I never thought I’d end up with this interest in photography. But I knew that it was then that I first started looking at photos as more than just snapshots. I learned about types of compositions that I liked. And interesting lighting. And focus. Even though I didn’t know how to do any of those things. And even though it took a couple years after that for me to actually think about taking those kinds of shots myself. And I think Jess was relieved that there was someone else attached to a camera for a change

And I met up with other friends. Another former neighbour and kitchenmate Sophia. And Emmanuel a classmate who is now PhD’d. And ever encouraging that I follow the same path. But enough about personal stuff. Back to the city. And the food.

I have, of course, pictures. Of Princes Street. Old College. The Gardens. Calton Hill. The Royal Mile. Craigmillar Castle. And Dolly, the cloned sheep. There was even a Trinidad and Tobago tourism booth! During the Rat Race Adventure – Edinburgh leg, as T&T was the sponsor of the main prize – a trip to T&T! Hence the spare flag for use in this photo. Idea, and holding of the flag – Jess. But onto the food!

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Chocolate Soup – a very cool cafe located on Hunter Square, which is just off the Royal Mile. The specialty is of course chocolate soup, which is hot chocolate made in so many different ways. I had the Harvest Spice, which is a wonderful combination of nutmeg and cinnamon. Mmm. With shortbread. Because why not. They have interesting furniture too – cushioned cubes in their window seats. Bright, yet harvesty colours (oranges, reds, browns). It’s a nice stop for when you’ve been doing the Mile.

City Restaurant – this is like a chippie-diner, on Nicholson Street. Very very close to where we lived and open till 1 a.m. Very convenient when needed at almost all hours to get OUT, and stress about dissertations, participate in bashing the beady-eyed mouse-faced frustrating males in someone’s life, or even to share silly grins and happiness over someone else’s marriage proposal. The fare? Fish and Chips (or anything else “deep-fried in batter” and Chips – Fried Mars Bars were invented in this country you know?). Served with tinned green peas and a little salad. Hot Chocolate. Coffee. All-day breakfast, including a veggie British. The food is not spectacular (although the chips were good) but it wasn’t terrible and the place has memories. So, of course I had to visit at least once. For some Fish and Chips.

Deep Sea – [Edit: cannot believe I forgot] And that brings me naturally to what is the best fish and chips I have had in Edinburgh. Deep Sea is on Antigua Street and was discovered by us after the friendly match in 2004 when Scotland beat T&T 4-1. Which is a blog-worthy post in itself. Suffice it to say that I was part of a small Trini posse (7 people including my 2 American friends and neighbours – one, a football fanatic anyway, the other excited to be part of a posse and only sorry that she wasn’t going to get to sing Rally Round the West Indies) that joined up another small Trini posse from England and a slightly larger group from Aberdeen to be swamped by the blue and white and tartaned, bagpiping drumming Scots.

After the match, Jeff, Jess and I walked back home and being famished from the exertions of trying to make our voices heard and our flags seen, stumbled upon this fish and chips takeaway, and sat on some steps enjoying our find. It was really good. The batter wasn’t soaked up with crappy old-tasting oil and it was a healthy serving. And I don’t think it was just the mood of the day. So Jess and I this time, walked past Deep Sea a couple times before it was open and we could briefly relive that experience.

Kalpna – Indian vegetarian resturant on St Patrick’s Square off Nicholson Street. The brightly coloured sign always attracted me, but I never went in while I lived there. I went this time during the lunch buffet, which was about £5 I think. The food was great. We had chapatis, plain rice, pilau rice, various veggie curries. It was all cooked beatifully and tasted so very good. Delicious. They cater for vegans also and are relatively affordable even outside of the buffet.

Khushi’s Indian Restaurant – it used to be the “Original Khushi’s” when I was there, and was located on Potterow. It was a moderately priced restaurant with good (halaal) food. Really good. I love Indian food, and their Lamb Karahi was amazing. They’ve now moved to a swanky new location on Victoria Street, with a sweeping staircase and grand chandelier at the entrance and much more seating. Even with a waiting-to-be-seated area. When Jess and I met up with Sophia, we had to go there. We loved it as students – it was one of our favourite places to visit when we wanted to go restauranting (as opposed to kebab-shopping or Chinese-buffet-dining). It was a little disappointing. The food wasn’t bad, but the selection seemed smaller. And the lamb karahi definitely didn’t taste as great as it used to. It’s supposed to be cooked, then cooked again in fresh herbs so that it’s practically melting on your tongue with wonderful flavour (by the way, whatever happened to their menus with the more descriptive language?) It was not melty and not as flavourful. Not terrible, but not what I was expecting. (It wasn’t a case of building up my expectationsoverly high either, because a week or so later I had an excellent lamb karahi in Glasgow!)

And they kicked us out!! Ok, not really. But one of the things that always struck us about the restaurants in Edinburgh, was the difficulty in getting the bill. They’d only bring it if you asked for it. So in theory you could stay at some places for ages. Of course we never took advantage of this and this time we were still chatting after the chai, and a little while after they brought us the bill (unasked) they asked us nicely to move over to the waiting area. It was just a bit of a shock because we were early, there were quite a few tables empty. But I’m not really complaining about that. There could be a myriad of reasons they needed the table. It’s just more dramatic to exclaim – they moved to a swanky new place and KICKED us out! Sniff.

But Khushi’s is a real Edinburgh insitution, having been there 50 years, in various locations. It’s still good food. And all halaal.

Palmyra’s – also on Nicholson Street, and even closer to where we lived. So close I couldn’t even tell you how many times I’ve eaten there! It’s a kebab shop and pizza place, with burgers too! (What kebab shop isn’t multi-talented?) But their kebabs are good. And huge servings. I usually had the Chicken Shawarma (seasoned strips of chicken, served with or in a flat bread with yoghurt and veggies). The pizza is not particularly great, but since all their meats are also halaal, some people insisted on trying an all-meat when they visited me. I wish I’d tried the burgers though. Oh, and they have baklava. Mmm. Cheap with student discounts. Regular price of a kebab – about £3.50 -£5 depending on the size.

We didn’t eat out all the time though. We were staying in self-catering flats, and because it’s something we do, we cooked a couple times. I made wholegrain spelt paratha. Yes I did. And without baking powder too. (Something I learned that was possible from BurekaBoy) And Trini stew chicken (managing to set off the smoke alarm the first time due to an amateur mistake of NOT PAYING ATTENTION TO THE BURNING SUGAR). With curry aloo. Like so many things about this trip, it was just like old times.

Edinburgh Flickr set.

This is part of What I did on my Vacation (July 2007).

Guyanese Fish Cake

I have made reference to fish cakes before, in talking about the Trini snack accra, the Bajan fish cake which is very similar (both made of salt fish) and I believe I posteda picture of a fish cake from Suriname, which perhaps speaks to the Javanese roots of that country. I ordered in lunch recently from Windjammer‘s lunch specials and the meal of the day was rice, dhal and fish cakes. Hmmm. I hadn’t heard of Guyanese fishcakes before, so I was intrigued. Was it going to be like accra, Bajan, Surinamese or those sometimes overly moist or dense Thai cakes? The Guyanese fishcake (or at least Windjammer’s version) seems to be made from fresh, not salted fish, and is a moist, well-seasoned mixture of mostly fish (not too much batter), deep fried. Despite it being fresh fish, the seasonings were familiar, common to the Caribbean, with a hint of the Guyanese married man’s pork or sweet basil. I liked these. Even though they weren’t nice and doughy like my accra. But for eating with rice, dhal and callaloo (spinach here, not the Trini callaloo) it was excellent.

Fish and (Plantain) Chips

Now, fried plantain in various forms is quite common throughout the region. We have twice-cooked green plantains from our latinamerican neighbours, fried ripe (oh so deliciously caramelised) plantains and of course the ubiquitous plantain chips (thinly sliced plantain deep-fried and salted crisps). But while normally I’d envision fish’n chips as being fish with chips made of potato, fried sticks of plantain seem to be popular here. The first time I had it I was unsure. The texture is not as soft as potato, and it is a bit drier, but I am getting a taste for it. It probably needs the ketchup (I have mentioned before that Guyanese love ketchup – not that Trinis aren’t known for slathering it over pizza…) but I don’t like chips and ketchup. Maybe some other sauce or condiment. However, I still do like it as a change from the regular French (Belgian) fries that is the normal fast food fare.

In Barbados and Jamaica for example, the street grills serve up fried breadfruit as sides to their barbecue and fish. I like them a tad more seasoned, but again, a nice alternative to potato. And I probably just need some sauce to go with them. And the fish? Seasoned so good, and when hot hot hot, it is great (I love fish). I think this is usually banga-mary (sp?) seasoned with some sweet basil, thyme and a hint of turmeric I believe (among other regular green seasonings). I do admit I will be enjoying some British battered fish and chips with mushy peas, but salt and vinegar cannot always compare to well seasoned Caribbean fried fish.

Waini River Chocolate Cake

Alright, Guyana didn’t invent chocolate cake. I know everyone has it. But this is chocolate cake made from cocoa produced by the Amerindians on the Waini River. IN GUYANA. And this cake served up in Oasis Cafe in Georgetown (post coming soon on that establishment) is my absolute favourite. I don’t know if it’s the rich cocoa taste. Or the fact that it is made with just the right touch of sweetness to balance the chocolate but not overpower the dark feel. Or maybe it’s just atmosphere. But no, I have had other chocolate cakes here and don’t care for them this much. This I have everytime I am in there for dessert. Ah. Waini River Chocolate Cake. Organic too.

Asian Palm Thai Restaurant, Holetown, St James, Barbados

Asian Palm is described as a Thai and Chinese restaurant and is situated in the same street as the very nice Sitar Indian Restaurant. Little narrow 2-storey house, very unprepossessing on the outside. We decided to go there, because we were in the mood for Thai, but were in St James and didn’t feel like heading all the way to Tamnak Thai in Christchurch. Plus, we wanted somewhere a little cheaper. So, fingers did the walking, found a Thai place, and out we went.

Well, it wasn’t a particularly fancy restaurant, but that’s never a problem if they have good food and service. The only guy we saw was friendly enough and led us upstairs past the empty bar/downstairs area (no real need for a reservation in the middle of the week, perhaps). The decor could have been really great – nice curtains and colours on the walls. Asian bamboo touches etc. Ruined completely by a blue-ish tablecloth that clashed with the other colours, and covered in plastic!! Sigh. Could still have good food, right?

I ordered the shrimp and pineapple Red Curry. I had not had Thai food in sometime and a red curry with pineapple sounded great. But it wasn’t really a red curry – it didn’t taste particularly Thai, and wasn’t very red. It looked like it had been made with regular curry powder ingredients, and not the red curry paste, which starts with red chillies. It didn’t taste bad, but it wasn’t anything special or Thai. I had egg-fried rice, which was standard Chinese takeaway type fare. My friend had Pad Thai, since she loves loves that dish, but she was also disappointed. Yet again, not a very authentic flavour. Now I do accept that Pad Thai and even curries can vary from cook to cook, but I am sure you get the idea – the food didn’t blow our minds or satisfy the particular craving we’d been having. Now, my experience with Thai restaurants before this is mostly from the UK, while my friend would have enjoyed hers in the US. And both of us were left wanting. Tamnak Thai on the other hand, in Christchurch, meets our Thai needs.

Of course, this is not to say that I am advising that you avoid this restaurant. The service was friendly, although not particularly attentive. The food is not bad, just not particularly special or noteworthy. Just be forewarned that it is more akin to your standard Chinese restaurant fare and not really Thai. Also, the menu has flying fish options, so you get a Bajan-Chinese-Thai kinda food. I would probably go there again and try some of their other dishes. And it isn’t overly expensive or formal, so it was a good liming dinner. We actually stayed there really long. Long enough to get past the usual “work people crazy. What is wrong with all these lunatics?” and move on to normal conversation. And trust me, my life right now, the work-people-crazy talk can go on. And on.

Sitar Restaurant, Holetown, St James

Holetown is one of those prime tourist areas in Barbados. And there’s a reason for that. In a small area, there are shops and restaurants tightly packed for visitors’ enjoyment. I am sure the shopping is great, but the real reason I like it is the abundance of eating options. You can just drive along and find somewhere nice to eat. Although generally, I’d recommend calling for a reservation. They seem to like it in most places.

Sitar is located somewhere in a pair of side streets of the main road, amid other restaurants, a couple bars, karaoke and otherwise and there are always people on the street looking very much as if they’re enjoying themselves. The restaurants are in quaint narrow houses and you can’t quite tell what it’s going to be like from the outside.

Sitar, an Indian restaurant, is small, with good food. I’ve only been once so far, but I will go again, time permitting. I am not quite sure about the service – people were friendly, but the service was a bit slow considering there were only a couple other tables there. But I did like the food. I had veggie samosas (nice, hot crispy, but low light and the one picture I had is too blurry). And then Matar Paneer, Pilau Rice and some Garlic and Onion Nan. I don’t think I have had Matar Paneer before, although I always like Paneer. The Nan was very good. Light, a bit crispy on the outside and nice flavour.

The serving sizes are decent and the price is not too bad. Another reason to like this part of Holetown, the food is fairly affordable. I noticed the dish they served the Matar Paneer in looks JUST like the ones that Rasam in Trinidad uses. Must be a Caribbean Indian restaurant supply store. But the plates were cool and different. Colour. Nice.

Update (18 May 2007): I have visited Sitar at least three more times since this post. They know us now. Seriously. Everyone came over to say hello. I thought I could post a bit more on the food and prices.

Appetizers - The samosas really are consistently good – flaky, hot and flavourful and served in 3s. Not very spicy for those who worry. And the slightly sweet red sauce they serve with it is a good compliment. I have also had the ground split pea patties (like Trini kachorie, can’t remember the name they use) which are also good – crispy and well seasoned. You get 3 of these per order.

Nan - The nan at Sitar is light and thin and just the right amount of crispy on the outside. Very very nice. The Aloo Nan (with a layer of seasoned potato in the middle) is a particular favourite. Word of caution – 2 people can comfortably eat 1 order of nan with your main course.

Side Orders - Sitar’s rice dishes are made from basmati rice and are nice. I have not tried the biriyani (which would be a main course) and only 2 types of the rice, but Ithink they do a good job. I don’t think they are necessarily spectacular, but if you like rice, you won’t be disappointed. I have also had some of the vegetable sides, like the Aloo Gobi (pictured on the left), which is a mixture of potato, cauliflower and other vegetables, cooked in a mixture of spices like turmeric and cumin. I think the actual flavour may vary with the chef and spices used, but I love the 2 main ingredients, so I ordered it, but I found the taste of the fresh coriander leaves to be somewhat overpowering. I usually like coriander/cilantro, but not as much as chadon beni/culantro from T&T. This dish had too much of the slightly grassy/woody taste that cilantro/coriander can sometimes contain.

Curries - I have tried quite a few of the curries and come to the conclusion that I don’t really like the overly creamy Indian curries. I think I prefer the ones that are tomato based at Sitar. The Vindaloo is good and I think I would like to try the Jalfrezzi if I get a chance to visit again (my time in Barbados is almost up). The last time I had the Kerala Fish Curry, which seems to be just some spices (usual suspects like turmeric, ground coriander, cumin) and some yoghurt. It was a nice balance to the fish, with a hint of tangyness from the yoghurt. One of my friends orders the Chicken Korma every time, and loves it. I am not sure I like Kormas, so go with her recommendation As mentioned above, the Matar Paneer is quite nice. And the lamb curries are apparently well cooked and seasoned.

Desserts – Sitar offers 2 Indian desserts – Gulab Jamoon and Kulfi. Indian Gulab Jamoon is of course not Trini Gulab Jamoon; Indian Gulab Jamoon is more like Trini Rasgullah – fried balls of milk in a spiced sugar syrup. Sitar’s Gulab Jamoon (pictured on the left) is very good, but a little too much syrup for me. Plus they top it with whipped cream and a cherry (why??). The Kulfi, Indian icecream, is dense and condensed milky sweet, with nuts, ginger and spices. Mmm. But also topped with whipped cream and cherries…

You can also end the meal with a very nice Masala Chai.

I kept the bill (if only I could find it) and Sitar is relatively reasonable in terms of price (it’s still Barbados). A 3 course meal, plus coffee or chai and soft drink came up to BD $90 (US $45). And we still had take home bags of curry and nan.

Il Tempio, Fitts Village, St James

Italian obviously. I have been here twice and I like it. It’s pricey (the ice cream alone while very good, costs about the same as a typical fast food meal) but has a nice atmosphere and usually friendly attentive service. Plus it is ON the beach – what more can one ask from a restaurant, but the opportunity to sit in candlelight looking out at waves, while getting simple, but tasty Italian meals. Of course, that nice candlelight doesn’t make for great pictures, not having a DSLR just yet. But, you can get the idea of the ambience.

Upon arrival, you get a little tidbit from the chef, some nice tiny mouthful of something. And a personal greeting etc from the nice Italian owners. The service the first time was excellent – frequent refilling of water glasses, quick delivery of hot bread when more was requested and generally good attention to the diners. The second time was just as friendly, but not quite as attentive, but they were very busy with some large parties, perhaps. Friendliness can forgive a lot, so I’ll wait to assess the service again at a third visit.

The bruschetta was pretty good – slice of tomato, slice of cheese and basil leaf, grilled…mmmm. I always try the bruschetta. Always different in every restaurant! Their homemade pastas have really nice flavours, even if the servings are a bit small. The pasta pictured was agnolotti stuffed with cheese in a walnut and gorgonzola cream sauce. Very nice. Very creamy. Straight to my sinuses by next morning, but it was worth it (well, maybe it was that AND the chocolate and hazelnut gelato I had after). I also had (with Lilandra) the Ravioloni alla Sorrentina (pasta stuffed with ricotta cheese and asparagus in a cherry tomato sauce (this is what we had right? or was there a special we ordered? I forgot to write it down).

The gelatos are excellent and creamy. But about BDS$20. Starters range from about BDS$25 to $40. Main courses start from about $38. US $1 = BDS$ 2. The menus are available online, so you can get the idea.