Ramadan is a month where Muslims try to be the best Muslim they can be, in addition to the daily fast (from dawn to sunset) and the additional night prayers (Tarawih). Because it focuses on a month of fasting culminating in one of the two official Muslim celebrations – ‘Id ul Fitr** – you would find some attention to food during this month. And thus there may be activity on Lifespan of a Chennette during Ramadan especially if I manage to partake of or make some favourite childhood delicacy or experience something new and fantastic from the Muslim Ummah.

You can check out my Recipes page for some of the traditional treats Muslim Trinis might enjoy during this month – savoury ones like accra, kachourie, baigani, or sweet like halwah and sawine. Or read some of my Ramadan to see what I might be getting up to when it’s quiet on the blog!

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*The moon was not visible last night in our part of the world, but as it was announced in Saudi Arabia, Europe and parts of the USA, some jamaat (congregations) may have started fasting today, based on the ‘international sighting’ school of thought.

**‘Id ul Adha is the other celebration, and is technically the Big Eid.

According to Wikipedia, za’atar i’s generally a combination of ground dried herbs such as oregano, thyme and marjoram, with toasted sesame seeds and salt. And then there’s the sumac. Which isn’t necessarily found in all varieties – Wikipedia says it’s a Lebanese addition, perhaps. Sumac is used in the Middle East and in the Mediterranean as spice to add some sourness or tangy taste, hint of citrus, to dishes. It’s found as a ground red (or dark purple) spice and people use it as a seasoning in all kinds of dishes, or just over a salad (see salad at right which we had in Saudi Arabia last year after the Hajj). I wanted my za’atar sour-ish, so I wanted the sumac version.

So to get back to the sumac. We bought some when we went to Hajj last year. We weren’t entirely sure what we were looking for, but in a trip to one of the big stores (a Bin Dawud) we looked all throughout the spice counter just to see what they sold (such big spice counters!). In addition to our trying to figure out what was good saffron (and that is yet another story we haven’t told**), we saw this huge tub behind the counter with a reddish ground spice. Hmm…we asked what it was. The guy looked confused…confused that we were asking I think, he seemed to understand but not speak English but was most likely wondering who on earth doesn’t know what sumac is? After a few tries, with the salesperson becoming increasingly amused we figured it must be sumac and bought up a big bag (might have been a pound…it’s light stuff, but the deciding how much to buy further delighted the man behind the counter I am sure.

So this Eid I had sumac. I had sesame seeds. I even had dried oregano and thyme. Za’atar was my destiny. Za’atar has a complex flavour – nuttiness from the toasted sesame seeds (which is enhanced if you use a little geera/cumin like I did, the tang from the sumac and the thyme and oregano rounding out the overall depth. In addition to dipping some fresh bread (of any kind, doesn’t have to be pita) into this, I’ve used it for chicken, in pasta, baked on a flat bread/pizza dough…possibilities abound.

ZA’ATAR RECIPE (so easy)

• 1/4 cup sesame seeds (toasted)
• 2 tbs dried thyme
• 2 tbs dried oregano
• 1 tbs sumac (or a bit more)
• 1 tbs geera (cumin)

I left out salt, since I figured I could add that to taste depending on need and use of the za’atar, but if you are making a batch for a specific use, go ahead and add the salt – about 1 tsp.

Toasting sesame seeds is great, because I love the smell and the magic of seeing the shiny goldenness appear – but be very careful, since it goes from a hint of gold to black very vast. The seeds are very small after all.  I used a small non-stick pan, stirred frequently, and when many started to get shiny and golden (even if still lots of white) I turned off the heat and kept stirring in the pan till they were evenly brown.

You could just mix all ingredients together, or do as I did,  and zap them briefly in my coffee grinder. Which doesn’t really grind tiny sesame seeds, but everything gets mixed together very evenly.

Also…those amounts up there – VERY subjective. You might want more sumac, or less thyme. Or no cumin at all.  Add marjoram. Play around with the amounts. If you don’t have access to sumac, add some lemon salt or lime/lemon zest for the sourness (see Arabic Bites, a great blog by two sisters, for a recipe for Za’atar and Arabic Pizza (manosha).

For Eid, I did a chicken kebab inspired dish, using lots of za’atar, that was apparently a hit even for fussy pre-teens. And more recently I added it to some whole wheat  pasta and that was just lovely. I have no photos of these meals, but will post the chicken recipe soon enough. When I was in Trinidad for Eid ul Adha last month, Lilandra and I made pizza and used one of the pizzas as a za’atar flatbread. Yum.

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* A quick word as to pronounciation. Lilandra and I were recently shocked to hear Mario Batali and Alton Brown mangling this word on Iron Chef America (old episode I guess, can’t remember the secret ingredient) with variations given and ALL wrong. It is not pronounced zaTAH or zaTARR… Stress the first syllable, ZAHtar and if you want to get technical, the Arabic has an ‘ayn in the middle, which gives a in-the-back-of-your-throat vowel sound and hence the apostrophe in some spellings to indicate it’s like za-ahtar.

** The saffron story – I started to write it here, and decided that perhaps I should post on our much-neglected Hajj blog!

It’s that time of the Islamic calendar again – Eid ul Adha, the Festival of the Sacrifice. It falls on the 10th day of Dhul Hijjah, which is the month in which Hajj falls (hence name, if you recognise the root syllables).

So today (or yesterday, as we are behind over here) the Hujaaj or pilgrims would have spent the day in prayer on Mount Arafat (photo on the right). It’s one of the pillars of the Hajj where you spend the hours between the midday prayer and sunset making supplications, or personal prayers (du’a). It is the day when prayers will be answered and most Hujaaj have a list of prayers to make from friends and family for this day. If you are not performing Hajj this year, you fast and still make du’a.

You spend the day in tents, which are not permanent and as they are only for the day are not airconditioned, made from regular tent fabric. Still, rows and rows and rows! And of course people…you leave at sunset…if your bus is there…OR you get time to take photos of the empty tents…Arafat is also where I got that photo of the camel!

This is technically the Big Eid, the bigger of the 2 official Muslim festivals, but in T&T it tends to get overtaken by Eid ul Fitr which has a holiday and is preceded by a month of fasting. In Guyana and Suriname, Eid ul Adha is a holiday, so those Muslims will have the day off tomorrow. Those of us lucky enough to be caught in the CHOGM holiday bracket (schools and POS government offices) can also take the day to celebrate. As this Eid can be celebrated over 3 days, many persons are also taking the opportunity to have the sacrifice or Kurbani done tomorrow, Saturday.

I am in Trinidad until tomorrow night, so Lilandra and I are making baklava (done), apple crumble (done, and so good, nice balance of tart and sweet), pizza (getting there) and a flatbread with za’atar (one of those things I am to post soon). Today Mom also made fresh kachourie for iftar (breaking of the fast) and tomorrow we make mutton biriyani!

I am still on the road more or less until the week after, so more posts then!

Falafels are that ubiquitous Middle Eastern item – savoury, crunchy, fried balls of beany-goodness. Some may say falafels are Israeli, there may be other countries laying claim to the source of these delicious vegetarian protein-packed treats, but I am no food historian, so I won’t get into the debate. You can check out Wikipedia. Falafels are great on their own, eat with a tahini (Middle Eastern sesame seed paste) dip, or as shown above with one of the chutneys Trinis serve with all our savoury deep fried goodies – in this case a boiled mango chutney. In fact, falafels are so similar to Trini kachouries (ground yellow split pea fritter), that they should be recognised as siblings. Falafels are also commonly served popped into pita bread, for a deliciously filling sandwich. Falafel like this is street food, and like the Trini doubles, or bake and shark, they’re sold with “a vast variety of ingredients and sauces to fill … falafel (pita) sandwiches” (burekaboy‘s Falafel 101 is an excellent guide and recipe to perhaps more authentic Falafel).

While the most commonly found falafel is made from chickpeas (channa, an ingredient extremely familiar to Caribbean people, especially Trinis), Egyptians traditionally made theirs from fava beans. Mom always made hers using lentils and bulgur wheat. Much more like a vegetarian kibbe actually. She says it’s because she never liked fava beans, so…lentils…after all she grew up with it in jedra!. And burekaboy noted that his Lebanese neighbours added bulgur. So Syrian-Lebanese-Trini variation maybe.

This recipe is really simple. Really. Soak beans for 24 hours, add lots of fresh herbs and aromatics. Use food processor or blender if you want a smoother texture. And fry. Voila. Don’t believe me?

RECIPE
Makes about 40
Ingredients:

• 1/2 lb dry chick peas
• 1/2 lb dry lentils (or use 1 lb chick peas)
• 1 tsp baking soda
• 1 cup chopped fresh herbs of your choice (parsley, chives, shadow benny/cilantro etc)
• 5 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp geera (cumin)
• 2 tsp ground coriander
• salt and black pepper to taste (taste the batter raw, go ahead)
• possibly a few tbsps of flour (or dhal flour)

optional: some fresh bird or other hot pepper to your tolerance level

1. Soak beans in enough water to cover about 2 inches over. Add baking soda. Leave for 18-24 hours.

2. Rinse beans well and let drain.

3. Put beans and all other ingredients in food processor or blender and zap away. (I like the food processor because I like it chunkier – it’s super crunchy that way and I love the texture).

4. You can store this in the fridge for a couple days, although I have noticed that it might need a little flour to bind after this.

5. Put about 2 inches of oil in a heavy pot and heat to medium high.

6. Check the mix to see if it needs flour – squeeze a golf ball sized in your hand and see if it sticks together. If it does, then take a heaping tablespoon of the mix, shape into a slightly flattened ball and fry. If it holds up and doesn’t burn, then you’re good to go without flour and the oil isn’t too hot. If the mixture breaks up in your hand or in the oil, then add a few tablespoons of flour and mix so it can be shaped easily. Until you get the hang of it, fry one at a time. Keep hands moist.

7. Fry the falafel until golden brown (lentils in the mixture will make it a bit browner) and drain on paper.

Serve with a tahini dip (maybe recipe to follow, although I relied on Mom to do this!) or a spicy Trini chutney (tamarind is really really good).

Of course, as with any food, people have their preferences, and the Rules result in sawine made the way Mom (and her family) enjoy it. Following your own rules gives you sawine the way you want it. Just don’t hold me responsible for the consequences. Now, no angry emails or comments, please. You know this is not really meant to consign all other sawine recipes to the bin or somehow malign your Naanee or Chachee or whoever taught you how to make your sawine. It’s just that any dish steeped in tradition comes with rules held over your head by a matriarch (or patriarch) as she (or he) forces you to adhere to the rigorous standards and elaborate methods to achieve the same results that generations before you enjoyed. To do anything less would be unthinkable. Part of that tradition is muttering about how the people down the road does use ghee instead of butter or them next door leave it on de stove too long or how your Aunt (by marriage of course) too own-way and look, you eh see how nobody eat she food last year?

The rules are also especially important when it’s a dish like sawine, where your version is going to have to compete with a dozen others on the same day, many many more during an Eid “season”. Sawine is traditionally made in huge quantities on Eid day so that you can share to everyone in the village or in the office and every single visitor – if it is one thing you have at a Muslim household on Eid day, even if you made some yourself at home, or if you have 20 other houses to visit later, you MUST try their sawine. It is very much a Trini tradition. Growing up the Eid schedule was: Mom wakes up earlier than anyone else and starts the sawine; then we go to masjid for salaah (prayer); come back change nto cooler clothes; pack up sawine in jugs and containers; join the other neighbourhood children to start delivering the sawine to each non-Muslim household while it’s still relatively cool in the morning. Special households would get some other sweets, but everyone would at least get sawine. And so, all our neighbours would get sawine from quite a few houses. And you want to know that yours can compete! The same way we wait for just the right parsad on Divali night, or sweet rice from the neighbour up the road. You don’t want to hear how anybody throw out your sawine or leave it for the least favoured family member to eat! (And in a village, somehow you hear these things…). Heck, for years, I’d always go across the road for their sweet bread (sorry Mom, but the recipe you gave me now is just the way I like it, so it won’t happen again).

Making sawine, with all that pressure, always seemed like a big, involved process. It is surprisingly a lot easier than you would think, especially if you are making for 10 people, instead of 200. No need to pull out the big gas ring stove, and huge masjid iron pots to patch (parch) humungous amounts of vermicelli days in advance etc. It is relatively straightforward and can be done fairly quickly in your own kitchen on a regular, or even small stove-top.

First, the RULES:

1. Never patch with butter (oil, ghee or any other fat) - this will make the sawine greasy and gloopy and it will spoil quicker.

2. Boil the sawine separately from the milk – or else the sawine will be gloopier and and it will spoil quicker.

3. Don’t boil the sawine or milk with raisins or cherries or any fruit – only with nuts – add those other things after it’s cooked, or else the milk will split or sour faster

4. Only mix milk into sawine in batches as required. – or else…well you get the idea!**

Recipe after the jump

You probably gather by now, and certainly from the photos, that we like our sawine to be not-gloopy… the vermicelli should be free flowing in the milk, which should be thicker than regular milk, sure, but nothing approaching a pudding texture. We even add a little regular milk on top when we take it from the fridge to keep it loose. It is just our way.

Now, some of you might not know what “patching” is. I write it that way because that is how I hear it pronounced. We patch vermicelli noodles for sawine, flour for halwa etc. It means brown in a heavy pot (with or without butter) and perhaps comes from “parch”? I do not know.

But now, the RECIPE
(this makes a decent pot for a small dinner event, or for the family with leftovers in the fridge – it all depends on whether you are a big bowl sawine-eater or a little serving…it should make about 2 – 2.5 litres)

Ingredients

* 1 cup vermicelli
* cinnamon stick, cardamom (elaichi) pods, cloves
* 4 cups water
* 1/2 cup sugar (preferably white, granulated)

* 175 ml (1/2 tin approx) tin evaporated milk plus equivalent water
* 195 ml (1/ tin approx) tin condensed milk plus equivalent water
* 1 tsp almond essence
* 1/2 cup ground blanched almonds (if desired)
* raisins, cherries etc (if desired)

Parching
1. Heat a heavy-bottomed pot. Add vermicelli (breaking up into small pieces before or in the pot) and whole spices.
2. Stir frequently until all noodles are brown, but not burnt. There will be some unevenness in the colours, some being beige to dark brown, that is normal.
3. Empty out into a metal bowl or tray and let cool.
Note: You can store parched sawine for a long time, just keep (with spices) in a sealed bag or container. If you might need to hang on it to it forever, keep it in the fridge but you might want to reparch it before making the sawine.

Sawine
1. In a pot big enough to fit 2.5-3 litres, put parched sawine, sugar and the 4 cups of water to boil. You may add ground almonds to this.
2. Boil until just cooked (try not to overcook as it will just continue to cook in the hot water and then over time will soak in all the liquid anyway).
3. Meanwhile, mix the evaporated milk, condensed milk and almond essence (mix VERY well)  and heat gently. (Mom sometimes adds almonds to this as well). Don’t let it come to a boil. On Saturday, Mom heated the milk in my microwave!
4. Add milk to sawine when ready to serve.
5. Just before serving, you may add raisins and cherries etc. Or you can keep these in bowls for guests to add as they like. If nut allergies are a problem, then keep the almonds out of the cooking and put on the side as well.

Notes:
1. As this is a small batch, which will not stick around for long, I am going to condone breaking one of the rules and say that you could just boil everything together if you wanted. I would insist, however, that if you were making a larger batch, or were making this in advance, that you boil them separately to achieve the consistency the Rules advocate.
2. If you are going to refrigerate, then wait till both liquids are cool, then mix and store in fridge. You will need to add some more milk before reheating, although I wouldn’t reheat – just top up with a little plain milk and stir.
3. Some people do not like biting into whole cardamom. I hate biting into whole cloves. When the sawine has boiled, most of the cloves and cardamom will have floated up to the top – retrieve them as much as possible and discard.
4. Experiment with spices – a dear friend of mine, from Jamaica,*** the first time I ever made this by myself, decided when she tried it, that anything with milk and cinnamon could benefit from nutmeg, and thereafter we had it with nutmeg!

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* People have asked me for a sawine cake recipe – I think this one by Guyana Gyal seems a good one to try.

**Mom also has a horror of things spoiling and many foods have certain rules or steps to follow to ensure that they don’t go bad – she is a pro at cooking large amounts of food, and it is on these occasions, particularly for events where food tends to stay out in uncertain conditions, that one has to be very careful.

*** Rone was a frequent visitor and commenter on this blog, and passed away completely unexpectedly a year ago. I’ve had her in mind all throughout this post, and I guess this one’s for her.
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I have decided, that although Eid ul Fitr has passed for this year, that I shall attempt to post recipes for all the things we made for this Eid. After all, people will still be looking for them next year, or indeed for Eid ul Adha (which is just a couple months away).  And it should help with the number of posts…always a concern for a blogger…

Our (sister-the-elder and I) prep for Eid started earlier in the week with discussions on menu and making lists. I’m doing Eid with her family here in Guyana and not in Trinidad. So, we basically have to cater for the mosque crew tomorrow from lunch onwards (which will NOT be curry since that’s the primary food group they’ve been enjoying all month long at the masjid). And then another big do in the week for other friends, which will be curry (alhamdulillah, because it means less I have to actually cook!). And then, super ambitious this year – I am going to have a few people over next weekend for a small Eid dinner. Haven’t done that since my student days in Edinburgh. I usually just am part of a larger family thing either at home in Trinidad, or here in Guyana with my sister. So lots of menu planning and cooking.

All 3 events will need some sweets. And after our years of experience with Mom, we try to set aside some nights in the week before Eid to make large batches of sweets. This was somewhat hampered by lack of essential ingredients (NO Nestle’s cream? Can you imagine?? I can only surmise the distributor in Trinidad just kept all there!). But 2 nights ago we made gulab jamoon – 206 of them, fried in batches of 13 and then sugared in a quick icing sugar glaze. We had planned to make one of those large cartering size sheet pans of barfi…but no cream and no desire to be creative and experimental with such a core sweet. So tonight we made halwa – 1.5 lbs of semolina halwa! All this while fending off 2 little ones and with the varying helpfulness help of a pre-teen and teen.

We also did some prep for the more savoury courses – boiled 5 lbs potato for the potato salad, ground 3 lbs of channa and lentils for falafel, cooked the 4 lbs of minced beef for lasagna, someone cut up and season the 20 lbs of chicken and made sure we had more than enough green seasonings and other ingredients. We also made a macaroni pie with lots of cheese and mustard…and minced beef (which won’t pass Lilandra’s standards because of that one little addition). It made a good dinner for the night of Eid, followed by ice cream (and goodness, the places little ones can drip and drop ice cream is amazing…and they don’t go for the no-stain coconut…no, it has to be chocolate…)

So for those who are interested, our menu (a la Lilandra’s usual style)

Eid Day

• Falafel
• Tahini dip (darn got to remember to dig out the tahini from my fridge!)
• Lasagna
• Yellow Rice
• Stew Chicken
• Potato Salad
• Green Salad
• Halwa
• Gulab Jamoon
• Sawine

(It may not sound particularly exotic, but we’re looking forward to it, so it’s festive enough!)

Wednesday
Curry – which should be roti, rice, curried meats, punpkin, bhagi…you get the idea)
Plus the sweets

Saturday Night

• Falafel
• Bulgur Pilaf
• Trout Filets baked (perhaps stuffed) in a sour cream/lime sauce
• Chicken Biriyani OR
• Chicken Kebab inspired dish (with Middle Eastern seasonings – time to break out the sumac I brought from Hajj)
• Potato, Eggplant and Feta dish
• Usual sweets (whatever’s left)
• Baklava (if I can find filo pastry)

It’s already close to midnight and I still have to sort out my clothes, so I won’t even try to put more photos in this post. You can browse my Flickr stream for Eid photos and enjoy!

I’d always known of the 2 kurmas, and gulab jamoon, as separate entities, and it was only once I hit high school that I realised there was any other way of thinking. Kurma growing up (in a primarily Indian village in Central Trinidad), was really the fat kurma, served as sirni (sweet) after Juma in the mosque on Friday, or at Muslim functions and weddings in little plastic bags (fancy boxes and paper bags developed in later years). There were only a couple families I knew who would sometimes make and bring the thin kurma, which in my mind, was the kind normally sold in shops A recent conversation with a friend who also grew up in Central area, provided a possible reason that we didn’t get much thin kurma growing up – being Christian and surrounded by both Muslim and Hindu neighbours, she remembers getting fat kurma from the Muslims and thin kurma from the Hindus. AHA! It all made sense.

Thinking back to my sources of kurma, and checking with Mom, this explanation was indeed valid. In fact, back when lines between Muslim and Hindu Indo-Trini foods were more defined, you wouldn’t ever get thin kurma from a Muslim household! Muslims served sawine, halwa, maleeda and fat kurma. I used to wait to go to Hindu weddings to get karhi (the dhal with pholourie-like things in it) and even to this day some traditionalists say channa and aloo is “Hindu food”. Mom says long-time, paratha (buss-up-shut) was the roti of choice at Muslim weddings, while dhalpuri was the only roti served at Hindu weddings. Fortunately, I firmly believe if food is good and halaal, there should be no other distinctions In any event, gradually over time, these lines in the sand have been eroded to the point that people outside or within these communities never even think about such categorisations.

But back to the fact that there are 3 fried sweet dough things!

Thin Kurma is made from the least rich of the doughs, which is rolled out flat and cut into thin, rectangular strips, deep fried, then coated in a sugar syrup (paag). Simply Trini Cooking has an excellent step-by-step recipe with photos.

Fat Kurma is a little richer and should taste of some spice (cinnamon, clove and ginger). The dough is usually rolled into ropes, which are cut at an angle into diamond-like cuboids, deep-fried and coated in sugar (usually ending up in white, clumpy, oh-so-sweet sugar all over). It should only be crunchy on the outside, and soft and a little fluffy on the inside.

(Trini) Gulab Jamoon is fried balls of a dough enriched with spices, butter and condensed milk, then glazed with sugar. Traditionally made in elongated ovoid shapes, hand-rollled individually (see photo on the right).

But onto the FAT kurma recipe!

Ingredients

* 2 kg flour
* 500 gm butter/margarine
* 1 tin condensed milk
* 1 tin evaporated milk and 1 tin of water mixed
* Ground spices to taste – cinnamon, elaichi (cardamom) and clove
* 6 tablespoons finely grated ginger (or as desired)
* Oil for frying
* 1 kg granulated sugar (plus 1 cup)

Method

1. Mix flour and margarine completely until it looks like fine breadcrumbs.

2. Add half the tin of condensed milk, half the ginger and the evaporated milk and water and mix well.

3. Knead the dough until it is smooth.

4. Separate the dough into 4 balls and knead again to a smooth surface and allow to rest.

5. Put oil to heat in a heavy pot.

6. Roll out a ball to 1/2″ thick and cut into 1 1/2″ strips. Roll these strips slightly into ropes, and cut at an angle into 1 1/2″ pieces. Alternatively, don’t roll into a rope but cut the strips, turning/twisting the strip after each cut.

7. Fry the pieces in batches until golden brown. Repeat for each ball.

8. Leave the kurma in a large basin to cool and continue until all the balls are fried as directed above.

9. Divide the unsugared Kurma into 2 or 3 basins and have sturdy spoons for mixing.

For the Paag (Sugar Syrup):
10. Put sugar and one cup of water to boil in a large pot with the remaining ginger until the sugar mixture spins a thread when dropping from a spoon.

11. At this stage add the remaining half tin of condensed milk and boil again until the mixture spins a thread.

12. Divide this mixture equally between the basins and stir continuously until the kurma is evenly coated. You’ll need help to mix all kurma at the same time or the paag will harden. Unless you just keep the kurma in one large basin and turn it all at the same time.

13. Transfer to another bowl or tray to spread out a bit so that the kurma doesn’t clump together.

This is usually served in little clear plastic bags, but you can go ahead and pop them in just like that. Go brave!

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* just to clear up other possible confusions, this has nothing to do with korma which is a type of creamy curry, originating in Pakistan or North India

** oh, harken back to school bazaar days promising many Indian Delicacies for sale!

So, last week Wednesday was the first time I’ve gone to an ‘Id Salaah (prayer) on my own. Even in Edinburgh, I had company, from a Palestinian friend who lived in the building, to walk over to the masjid together. But I made it to the Eid salaah (prayer) on my own right on time for 6:30 a.m. at the outdoor venue. Holding an Eid Ga like this is a recommended practice, but I haven’t been to many as we usually go to our village mosque in Trinidad. I have been to this one in Guyana before, but with sister-the-elder and family. Going alone was…different. But, alhamdulillah, I felt good having made the effort to ensure I got there on time and even saw some people I actually knew! (Yes, I know I have technically been working here for over 3 years, but sometimes I don’t think I spend enough time here to call it living in Guyana).

I just wish I’d remembered that although the salaah was starting at 6.30, and I got dressed when it was barely light, that…the sun RISES. Imagine that. So by 7:00 a.m. I realised why half the sisters seemed to have popped open umbrellas the minute the salaah was over and the khutbah (sermon) began. There was even someone designated to stand over the khatib with an umbrella! It wasn’t too bad though as there was occasionally some passing cloud cover. And since it was a working day in Guyana, things didn’t last too long and I left before the sun got higher and hotter.

And then went to work. All dressed up, and with my little bits of gold jewelry. Because it was Eid. I usually take the day off, but since my sister and family aren’t here, I was planning to go home to Trinidad for the weekend, so I saved my day. I even went early, in the vain hope that I could therefore leave early. Riiiight. All in all, it wasn’t too horrible – I carried the cheese rolls and mango-pineapple cobbler bits to share with colleagues, and having fancy clothes helped to constantly keep me in a celebratory mood. In the evening, I even managed to visit friends and partake in their end-of-day Eid

The visit home, however, felt a lot more like the real thing. Actual family for starters. And even extra family in the form of a favourite cousin bringing her new husband to see Trinidad and her relatives. Our cooking, although much scaled down, focused on both what we wanted to do for a belated (i.e. when Chennette comes home) Eid, as well as a treat-the-cousin plan. The couple days at home relaxing and then cooking, and of course spending time with family and (some) relatives on the Sunday after Eid was really really good.

For a main meal, we tried a Moroccan-inspired lamb dish, with a couscous salad on the side, and flatbread made from the Peter Reinhart pizza dough Lilandra has stockpiled in the freezer.

I was responsible for the lamb, and I leafed through a really good North African cookbook (that perhaps I bought for Mom?). There were several lamb dishes that were similar in preparation (cook lamb for long in liquid with lots of herbs and fruit/sweet touches). I followed a recipe that called for lamb and prunes, but I used sun dried tomatoes instead. Essentially, I seasoned up lamb with lots of garlic and ginger, pressured it till tender with water and the liquid from soaking the sun dried tomatoes. Towards the end of cooking, I added the sundried tomatoes, some honey and cinnamon. And it was really good. Thick, delicious and perfectly melded flavours. Next time, I’d add some peppers (hot and sweet) and maybe a tad more ginger. Maybe even dates…or the prunes…

Lilandra had been planning for a couscous salad with roasted peppers. We had never roasted peppers before, and I don’t know why not (but more on that later). Whole grain couscous, added to craisins, roasted peppers, dates, bandhania, capers and garlic. Served hot or cold, this was great with the lamb and flatbread. The Bread was relatively easy since we had dough already – stretch out little balls, sprinkle with seeds of choice. Bake till done!

And we made baklava. More traditional layers, with walnuts, pecans, cinnamon and sugar. Rolls of walnuts and pecans (forgot the sugar, but they were dipped in syrup). Layers of almonds, nutmeg and cream cheese. And rolls with almonds. Oh. So good. There is absolutely nothing better than freshly made baklava. And since we greeted the cousin and her husband with baklava straight from the oven when they came in from the airport, I think we made an excellent first impression The arrival after midnight and the serving right away is why we don’t have more photos of this.

So in addition to a not-so-sweet mango-pineapple cobbler/crumble thingy (I’ll explain later), I made these cheese rolls. These rolls originated from a recipe in Amy Vanderbilt’s Complete Cookbook, which is one of those books Mom had from long long time, and which I always referred to growing up to figure out how to make something (days before the internet, that’s what we used kids, BOOKS, no Google, just an index). You can tell the book is old-school, but it was very useful. And she had a recipe for Baking Powder Biscuits, which I turned to when I wanted to replicate KFC American biscuits or scones (I learned from Form 1 Home Ec. that scones and American biscuits were related, both belonging to the rubbed-in method of baking).

And Cheese Pimento Rolls was one of the variations for those Baking Powder Biscuits. Now, I have no idea what she meant by pimento back then – since pimento is used to refer to allspice sometimes – but I knew about what Trinis called pimento peppers, which are the seasoning not-hot, thin-skinned peppers that we use in everything (almost). And that seemed like a nice complement to cheese. I can vaguely remember the first few times I made this that it seemed a bit bland, so we started adding mustard (mustard goes with cheese – see cheese paste, macaroni pie). But as I learned about the tricks to get such biscuits fluffy (shortening), tasty (butter) and keeping things cold, alternating between milk and water, I think I got a feel for making it without consulting the recipe again. So it usually is made depending on the texture I want, or the ingredients I have. And I most recently learned that cheese and onion is a classic combination for a really good reason.

And tonight I measured what I did.

CHEESE ROLLS RECIPE

Ingredients

Dough:
4 cups flour
2 tbsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
3 tbsp butter (cold)
3 tbsp shortening (Cold)
2 cups cold water (or milk) approx.

Filling:
500 g shredded cheddar cheese (approx amount, substitute any cheese)
1 tbsp mustard (or to taste)
2-tbsp minced onions
2-3 pimento peppers chopped
1 leaf chopped chadon beni (bandhania, culantro)
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Making the Dough:
1. Mix together dry ingredients. Add butter and shortening (diced) and rub into flour until resembles fine breadcrumbs.

2. Add water 1 cup at a time and gradually mix into flour until the dough comes together. Try not to overwork the dough.

3. Separate dough into two portions.

4. One piece of dough at a time, roll out to a rectangle about 1 cm thick.

5. Spread dough with mustard leaving about 2 cm free on a long edge.

6. Evenly sprinkle cheese, onions, pimentos, bandhania and black pepper, leaving the 2 cm edge clear.

7. Start rolling from a long edge (not the empty edge), slowly and tightly trying not to leave any air spaces (but don’t stress about it, it’s just to help seal in the cheese when you cut it, when baked it holds together fine). You can pinch the dough as you go along. When you’re done rolling, tuck in the sides to make flat ends of the roll, and pinch the long edge together with the roll to seal the ends.

8. Slice roll, about 2 cm thick and place cut side down on a greased baking sheet.

9. Repeat for 2nd piece of dough.

10. Bake in 375 degree oven for about 15-20 minutes, until golden-brown on the bottom.

This makes about 15-20 rolls, depending on how you cut. You may need more cheese.

I don’t get home to Trinidad until Friday, and this is my first Eid in Guyana with no family around, but insha Allah tomorrow I meet with friends and others to celebrate and enjoy until I reach home, and cook