According to Wikipedia, za’atar i’s generally a combination of ground dried herbs such as oregano, thyme and marjoram, with toasted sesame seeds and salt. And then there’s the sumac. Which isn’t necessarily found in all varieties – Wikipedia says it’s a Lebanese addition, perhaps. Sumac is used in the Middle East and in the Mediterranean as spice to add some sourness or tangy taste, hint of citrus, to dishes. It’s found as a ground red (or dark purple) spice and people use it as a seasoning in all kinds of dishes, or just over a salad (see salad at right which we had in Saudi Arabia last year after the Hajj). I wanted my za’atar sour-ish, so I wanted the sumac version.

So to get back to the sumac. We bought some when we went to Hajj last year. We weren’t entirely sure what we were looking for, but in a trip to one of the big stores (a Bin Dawud) we looked all throughout the spice counter just to see what they sold (such big spice counters!). In addition to our trying to figure out what was good saffron (and that is yet another story we haven’t told**), we saw this huge tub behind the counter with a reddish ground spice. Hmm…we asked what it was. The guy looked confused…confused that we were asking I think, he seemed to understand but not speak English but was most likely wondering who on earth doesn’t know what sumac is? After a few tries, with the salesperson becoming increasingly amused we figured it must be sumac and bought up a big bag (might have been a pound…it’s light stuff, but the deciding how much to buy further delighted the man behind the counter I am sure.

So this Eid I had sumac. I had sesame seeds. I even had dried oregano and thyme. Za’atar was my destiny. Za’atar has a complex flavour – nuttiness from the toasted sesame seeds (which is enhanced if you use a little geera/cumin like I did, the tang from the sumac and the thyme and oregano rounding out the overall depth. In addition to dipping some fresh bread (of any kind, doesn’t have to be pita) into this, I’ve used it for chicken, in pasta, baked on a flat bread/pizza dough…possibilities abound.

ZA’ATAR RECIPE (so easy)

• 1/4 cup sesame seeds (toasted)
• 2 tbs dried thyme
• 2 tbs dried oregano
• 1 tbs sumac (or a bit more)
• 1 tbs geera (cumin)

I left out salt, since I figured I could add that to taste depending on need and use of the za’atar, but if you are making a batch for a specific use, go ahead and add the salt – about 1 tsp.

Toasting sesame seeds is great, because I love the smell and the magic of seeing the shiny goldenness appear – but be very careful, since it goes from a hint of gold to black very vast. The seeds are very small after all.  I used a small non-stick pan, stirred frequently, and when many started to get shiny and golden (even if still lots of white) I turned off the heat and kept stirring in the pan till they were evenly brown.

You could just mix all ingredients together, or do as I did,  and zap them briefly in my coffee grinder. Which doesn’t really grind tiny sesame seeds, but everything gets mixed together very evenly.

Also…those amounts up there – VERY subjective. You might want more sumac, or less thyme. Or no cumin at all.  Add marjoram. Play around with the amounts. If you don’t have access to sumac, add some lemon salt or lime/lemon zest for the sourness (see Arabic Bites, a great blog by two sisters, for a recipe for Za’atar and Arabic Pizza (manosha).

For Eid, I did a chicken kebab inspired dish, using lots of za’atar, that was apparently a hit even for fussy pre-teens. And more recently I added it to some whole wheat  pasta and that was just lovely. I have no photos of these meals, but will post the chicken recipe soon enough. When I was in Trinidad for Eid ul Adha last month, Lilandra and I made pizza and used one of the pizzas as a za’atar flatbread. Yum.

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* A quick word as to pronounciation. Lilandra and I were recently shocked to hear Mario Batali and Alton Brown mangling this word on Iron Chef America (old episode I guess, can’t remember the secret ingredient) with variations given and ALL wrong. It is not pronounced zaTAH or zaTARR… Stress the first syllable, ZAHtar and if you want to get technical, the Arabic has an ‘ayn in the middle, which gives a in-the-back-of-your-throat vowel sound and hence the apostrophe in some spellings to indicate it’s like za-ahtar.

** The saffron story – I started to write it here, and decided that perhaps I should post on our much-neglected Hajj blog!

It’s that time of the Islamic calendar again – Eid ul Adha, the Festival of the Sacrifice. It falls on the 10th day of Dhul Hijjah, which is the month in which Hajj falls (hence name, if you recognise the root syllables).

So today (or yesterday, as we are behind over here) the Hujaaj or pilgrims would have spent the day in prayer on Mount Arafat (photo on the right). It’s one of the pillars of the Hajj where you spend the hours between the midday prayer and sunset making supplications, or personal prayers (du’a). It is the day when prayers will be answered and most Hujaaj have a list of prayers to make from friends and family for this day. If you are not performing Hajj this year, you fast and still make du’a.

You spend the day in tents, which are not permanent and as they are only for the day are not airconditioned, made from regular tent fabric. Still, rows and rows and rows! And of course people…you leave at sunset…if your bus is there…OR you get time to take photos of the empty tents…Arafat is also where I got that photo of the camel!

This is technically the Big Eid, the bigger of the 2 official Muslim festivals, but in T&T it tends to get overtaken by Eid ul Fitr which has a holiday and is preceded by a month of fasting. In Guyana and Suriname, Eid ul Adha is a holiday, so those Muslims will have the day off tomorrow. Those of us lucky enough to be caught in the CHOGM holiday bracket (schools and POS government offices) can also take the day to celebrate. As this Eid can be celebrated over 3 days, many persons are also taking the opportunity to have the sacrifice or Kurbani done tomorrow, Saturday.

I am in Trinidad until tomorrow night, so Lilandra and I are making baklava (done), apple crumble (done, and so good, nice balance of tart and sweet), pizza (getting there) and a flatbread with za’atar (one of those things I am to post soon). Today Mom also made fresh kachourie for iftar (breaking of the fast) and tomorrow we make mutton biriyani!

I am still on the road more or less until the week after, so more posts then!

We did somehow manage to take quite a lot of photos of the things we ate (although not everything!). Somehow, I guess this seemed acceptable…I haven’t sorted through those yet. I just couldn’t face it. Soon we’ll just create an album of the daily food or something.

While I’ve only got up to the days just after the Hajj was completed, anyone who’s interested can go visit Chennette’s Flickr album for Hajj 1429.

The photos are still of Makkah and I have some proper Kaabah shots to upload yet. Not to mention Madinah!! Insha Allah it’ll happen. What with relying on my cameraphone and the Olympus P&S that is supposed to be sister-the-elder’s when we thought we’d have the new Nikon Coolpix we got for the parents…the photos got better as we got used to the camera…AND I am tweaking

First View of the Kaabah

Originally uploaded by Chennette

The family returned from the Hajj on the 29th of December 2008. Last year That was on Monday and today is Friday. But we arrived with the usual Hajji cough, cold, flu, allergies, tiredness from 3 days of travel, good cheer from the completion of the Hajj and the communion with 4 million people from all over the world…everything but our luggage. Four of us, and the only luggage we got was our little 2-gallon container of Zam Zam water!

Alhamdulillah, we got our luggage yesterday. Of course, passage through and long stay in Caracas meant that 4 were opened and a couple things snagged from 2 of them, but nothing overly important or valuable (i.e. all my new hijabs are intact).

Lilandra walked with a copybook and had the great idea for us to journal (by HAND) so that we could at least have some notes for blogging later. We did pretty well on the trip TO Saudi Arabia, even having comments (in the margins) and guest commentary and musings from the parents. That never made it past the plane to Jeddah though. Once we got into Saudi we were in full Hajj mode and that just took up all our concentration and attention.

The experience of the Hajj is difficult to explain briefly. On one level, it is intensely personal, a completion of an individual religious obligation (if you can afford it) and an opportunity for forgiveness and personal prayer and supplication. During the Hajj, you try to do as much as you can to maximise the benefits of the experience. On the other hand, it’s a massive community exercise, with millions of Muslims from all over the world descending on the same location to do the same things for a few days. Oh, the languages, and the peoples, and the crowds. It’s all just amazing to be part of that, part of such a huge celebration and really feel like one of an Ummah (nation).

Lilandra and I will nonetheless try to chronicle our journey at our Hajj blog for posterity, and maybe for the benefit of any future hujaaj*. There are some really funny stories – especially the ones that were not so funny to us at the time. Wily old ladies and the unspoken battle for sleeping ground. The shock of the stooping toilets. Flat tyres and deserts. Saudi seasoning = salt, salt, and salt on the table.

I’ll link to them as we post, maybe cross-post a bit. But we’re back safely, and more or less healthy depending on when you ask us. As for photos, well, they technically don’t allow photographs in the Masjid-al-Haram (mosque around the Kaabah) and the Prophet’s Mosque in Madinah, but I managed it in Makkah (hence the pictures of the Kaabah and more to follow). In Madinah they’re much much stricter, but I do have some courtyard photos to share

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Hujaaj is the plural term for a pligrim, singular is Hajji or Hajja

one of the five obligatory pillars of Islam. We’ll be gone until the end of December, without internet access. So…no blogging

I won’t be able to moderate comments during the period, but don’t really want spam running wild on the blog for the month, so forgive me if you’re new and your comments don’t register. If you send an email to chennette [at] chennette.net I can deal with any requests or comments when I return.

Well, what the title means is that I couldn’t think of any snappy name for this post, which is just to pass on two bits of information.

Lilandra and Chennette are making the Hajj this year. Insha Allah (God Willing). We’re going with our parents, and will therefore be traveling to Saudi Arabia and thereabouts for the entire month of December. To commemorate this, we (Lilandra) have started a blog, called Lilandra and Chennette Make Hajj. We’re creative that way. We couldn’t get hajj at wordpress.com, but we got thehajj – we’re it. THE Hajj. Go visit. so far Lilandra’s retroactively documented our (her) steps since our first official Hajj group meeting (for which I was fortunate enough to be in Trinidad). Maybe this will be a way to help me prepare even though I am away from the rest of the group.

And, if you’re part of the foodblogging community, you may have heard of a grand fundraiser for Briana Brownlow of Figs with Bri. Jugalbandi is hosting this special event for CLICK this month, Click for Bri: Yellow who is fighting a battle with breast cancer. In addition to the special prize for Bri’s pick of the Click photo submissions, there is a fundraiser with lots of great prizes being raffled off for donors. Do you want specialty international food items? Autographed cookbooks? Accommodation in Italy? It’s all there. Show support by participating in Click this month, and if you can, by giving a donation which goes directly to Briana’s account to help with her treatment costs. I have to admit that I didn’t know of Bri before this, but I am a great admirer of Bee and Jai over at Jugalbandi, especially since they launched and manage Click. So, this is my bit to spread the word.

You may have noticed that, as of late, I have been posting maybe twice per month if so much. So much for my plans loudly declared at the beginning of the year. And I am fast approaching my 2nd anniversary at Lifespan of a Chennette…but it’s work. That day job thingy that gives me very little time these days to think, write, think about cooking or taking photos. Sigh. Even Google Reader was conspiring against me this week and not loading so I could keep track of the blogosphere. But, c’est la vie.

See you soon, most likely at the deadline for Click, as per usual.