I just returned from a completely unexpected visit to Curaçao, one of the 5 islands of the Netherlands Antilles. The Netherlands Antilles, although being part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, is located in the Caribbean Sea, comprising 2 groups if islands: Curaçao and Bonaire, just off the Venezuelan coast, and Sint Eustatius, Saba and Sint Maarten, located southeast of the Virgin Islands. Due to the nature of my visit and the meetings, I unfortunately did not manage many photo ops, neither did I get to sample much local fare. But I tried my best. I had one afternoon with the camera during a harbour tour to show some of this beautiful colourful city – Willemstad. It’s even been made a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s that incredible.
The city consists of two quarters: Punda and Otrobanda, which are separated by the St. Anna bay that leads into the large natural harbour called the ‘Schottegat‘. There’s water all around the city – the bay, the harbours and the sea – the sea being clear and a rich blue colour that I haven’t really seen in the Eastern Caribbean. The deep water harbour and drydock had water so clear that there were schools of fish and even jellyfish swimming happily along next to huge tankers and cargo ships. Apart from the colourful historic buildings, reflective of Dutch architecture, Willemstad is known in particular for its unique harbour entry and 2 bridges: one, the Queen Juliana, a blue metal arc that curves high above the city and the harbour; and the other a long pontoon bridge, the Queen Emma, that connects both quarters.
The Queen Juliana is impressive to look at, but the Queen Emma gives a distinct character to the city. It’s a swinging pedestrian bridge, the whole structure separating at one end from the shore and making its motorised way across the channel to line up against the opposite shore. It does this whenever a boat, or ferry or ship needs to pass. You may be walking along the bridge to get to the other side, and you hear a horn, giving you a couple minutes to try to make to the other side. If you’re headed to the shore where the bridge parks, you can just keep walking while it moves, but if you were trying to get to the other side…well, you’ll be sent right back to where you started. Where you can take a ferry, free while the bridge is open. Of course, the bridge only opens as long and as wide as necessary, so if it’s for a little ferry or tugboat, you can just wait it out.
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The buildings are very Dutch of course, but the array of colours is incredible next to the blue Caribbean Sea. It really is a place that I took one look at and decided I must visit again. Very European in its history and architecture, but so Caribbean as well in culture and atmosphere, and even food.
Like I said earlier, I didn’t have the opportunity to sample much local fare. Apart from fasting during the day, we were only there for 2 days. But from all accounts, much of the traditional food would have strong links and similarities to other more common Caribbean foods. After all, Curaçao and the Netherlands Antilles also have a similar history resulting in much African and Portuguese influences in their food and culture even though they are Dutch nationals. The proximity of Curaçao to South America, and relative isolation from the rest of the Caribbean island chain also results in a significant Spanish and Latin American influences.
Apparently one of the more traditional dishes is funchi, which is essentially a cornmeal dish like coucou, but without the ochroes that Trinis include. Coucou is of course also the Bajan national food, but it’s found in some form throughout the islands. When boiled red beans or black eyed peas are added to the funchi, they call it (and correct me anyone, if I am wrong) tutu. And I listened to that with a straight face indeed. Not sure if I could have it…but then is it as bad to contemplate as the intestine soup, called sopi mondongo. [Ok, I am not an entrails fan, although I have to admit that curry brains and intestines are very popular down my way…] I saw this soup and declined a closer look. I was fasting 😉 People seemed to enjoy it, perhaps they should not have told me what it was! I also heard about Guiambo a soup made from ochro and seafood, which we were told is very slimy (well, it’s ochro!).
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As for things I actually tried…well these were more of the snack food variety. I got a plate of traditional sweets, which at first glance appeared to be a plate of sweets found at home. The moist, dark coconut-y thing in the front (first picture) looked to be like tulum, and it tasted like tulum, albeit a slightly less molasses-y tulum. And served on a bit of coconut husk, so watch where you’re biting! Then there’s a nutcake. The white round sweet in the middle I wasn’t sure about, the texture reminded me of peyra (Indo-Trini sweet made from a base of dry, finely shredded roti) but it wasn’t very sweet and I couldn’t pinpoint the flavour – perhaps some coconut? – the serving was just too small for my investigations. The fudge (the front right of the 2nd picture) was just like Trini homemade fudge – hard and sugary, with a mild flavour, yumm. The tart/pie with the fancy crosshatch pattern was almost like a mince pie, with fruit jam and a very thick base compared to the layer of filling. One day, when I go back, I’ll learn the names and ingredients for these things. From Wikipedia:
“At weddings and other special occasions a variety of “”kos dushi”” are served: “”kokada”” (coconut sweets), “”ko’i lechi”” (condensed milk and sugar sweet) and “”tentalaria”” (peanut sweets).”
Wikipedia also says that they make hallacas in Curaçao, which is not surprising considering their location next to Venezuela. Hallacas are essentially what we make in Trinidad and Tobago as pastelles, and both are a Christmas specialty.
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I was also surprised to encounter a street vendor by the Queen Emma bridge, selling Boiled Peanuts! Surprised because I had only ever heard about these things on bureka boy’s blog a few days before and described as being very Southern American. I was curious then, and bought a bag (for about US$1) to try after breaking fast. And a large bottle of water since I thought they would be very salty, as you cook the peanuts in their shells in lots of salted water, until they get dark and very wrinkly at the ends. They weren’t overly salty, perhaps because I wasn’t sucking the salt out of the shells! And they tasted almost exactly like chataigne seeds (breadnuts).* I love chataigne seeds, but chataigne isn’t always readily available and is so labour intensive sometimes to prepare the chataigne and get the seeds that we haven’t had this in a while. And before my mother says anything, I can only remember cleaning chataigne once before in my life. These were a great and slightly addictive snack (but I love nuts anyway anyhow) and an interesting alternative to both regular baked/fried peanuts, or indeed chataigne!
The next time I get to visit the Netherlands Antilles I will be sure to track down some more local foods for tasting. And blogging.
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*Chataigne is the French Creole term (used in Trinidad and Tobago and possibly Saint Lucia and Dominica) for the jackfruit found in the region, whose seeds may also be called breadnuts. Châtaigne is of course French for chestnuts and the seeds of the chataigne do in fact resemble chestnuts and are boiled and eaten, while the surrounding layered flesh is a delicacy, served curried at Indo-Trini occasions.
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[…] 2 years ago, I wrote about my visit to Curaçao, the lovely island in the Caribbean Sea that is part of the Netherlands Antilles. Back when I would […]