Lilandra and I finally got around to buying (and reading) some books that have been in my wishlist..then shopping cart…for aeons. One of them (which she bought for me), is Ratio by Michael Ruhlman. I’ve been following his blog for a while – in addition to being an good read (including the comments), the photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman and her recent blogging on her photography have been fascinating.
I bought Ratio, because I am a big believer in one of the philosophies underpinning the book – that one should not be a slave to recipes, in fact you don’t need recipes. You need to know basics about cooking, but you shouldn’t need a precise recipe for everything. I buy cookbooks, and recipebooks (whatever may be the distinction) but I rarely follow them. I read them…I get inspired, but I do not generally set out to follow a specific recipe for most dishes. For doughs and batters, I admit that I may follow a recipe the first time, but it’s not part of me to want to keep following a recipe. It’s why it’s hard for me to write recipes for this blog! I cook and try new exciting things, even take photos of them, but to write down what I do, when I don’t do it exactly the same way twice?
So, what is Ratio if not a recipe book? It is “the simple codes behind the craft of everyday cooking” (from the title). So it provides you with the culinary ratios for bread/doughs, custards, batters, sauces etc – just the ratios of the core ingredients so that you learn the basics and can take it from there. Know the ratio for bread dough, keep it in your head or on your kitchen shelf (5 parts flour and 3 parts water) and you’ll never be at a loss when you suddenly ketch a vaps to make a feta cheese+olive+za’atar bread, for example. Of course, you have to open to this kind of cooking – the devising of meals and dishes based on what you have in your pantry and not what’s written on a list in a cookbook. Or being inspired by some deliciously fresh ingredient you discovered in the market that day. If that’s the kind of cook you’d like to be, then this would be a good read. It’s not going to have everything you need, but it’s a good reference to have.
I will admit that I decided to buy Ratio when Ruhlman blogged about his upcoming book and the custard ratio and I saw that photo of the quiche! That photo (by Donna) is in the book, and it stands to reason that a full year after that post, when I get my hands on the book I decided to make quiche! Now, I make quiche a lot – it’s been some time now that I have felt comfortable making a basic pastry/pie crust – mix of shortening and butter (depending on what I have), keep everything cold, don’t overwork etc. So, although I made sure to follow the ratio for pie dough too, what I was really after was the custard ratio. See, since I use varying size pans for the quiche when I make it, I tend to eyeball the amount of filling/custard I need, so I know I wasn’t getting it right – tasted great (eggs, cheese, veggies, why not?) but was it all that Ruhlman raves about? So, I sauteed onions, lots of fresh mushrooms (which I kept picking at they were so good – tinned stuff just doesn’t compare) and built the custard – 2 parts liquid: 1 part egg. From my experience with my pans’ capacity, I measured the eggs and then added twice the amount of liquid (milk+cream). Oh. So good. Velvety smooth and nary a taste of scrambled eggs. At all. It was no longer eggs baked in a crust, it was a CUSTARD.
Now I can replicate that for any quiche or free-standing custard. Granted, as you can tell from the photo, I didn’t have a 2″ baking ring, and used a cast iron skillet. My oven-that-sucks overbaked the pastry a bit. I didn’t leave the pastry overhanging enough to prevent leakage over the side. And you do NOT want to know how hard it was to get this out of the pan. But those were all my variables that I expected. And you know what? The other philosophy behind Ratio that I like is expressed in Ruhlman’s introduction:
“This is important: my aim isn’t to make the perfect bread or pasta or mayonnaise or biscuits – “the best I’ve ever had.” It’s to set a baseline to work from…I love that hunt for the perfect sauce, the perfect custard, but here I’m after good. Only when we know good can we begin to inch up from good to excellent.”
And that’s all I want. To be able to make good food, with occasional flashes of brilliance. Hopefully when I have guests who can attest to this brilliance.
Now all I need is someone to write a book about flour, baking and tropical humidity!


























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